All of us have seen warning labels on products especially on medications. A warning label is a label attached to an item, or contained in an item’s instruction manual, warning the user about risks associated with the use of the item. Many people including myself have referred to Medellín as paradise in a figurative sense because paradise really doesn’t exist except in one’s mine. Medellín and Colombia have many wonderful things to offer — much more good than bad. Expats wouldn’t living here if they didn’t love the country and believe it was an incredible place to live. For many people Colombia and its amenities can be a solution for what is ailing them. However, living in Colombia, specifically Medellín, can be a challenge and some precautions should be taken to avoid becoming an unhappy camper.
Below are some suggestions based on my 40 years of living here, experience as a relocation/retirement expert, linguist, author and retirement tour guide.
Not everything here works like it does in the States or Canada.
Don’t fall in lust with the country.
Don’t leave you brain on the plane.
Just because someone you meet here speaks English it doesn’t mean he or she is trustworthy.
Give a romantic relationship with a local a lot of time before making a commitment.
Be cautious when purchasing real estate. Brokers don’t need a license here and there have been many cases of fraud.
Have a good trustworthy and above all reliable attorney.
Find a good English-speaking doctor for your medical needs.
Give the country time and don’t make any hasty decisions.
Test before you invest.
Don’t go into business unless you really have to. The rules are different here and the market is very small. Most gringos who start a business don’t make it.
Colombians are friendly but don’t expect to make friendships like in your home country. Family is more important to them and their lives revolve around it.
LEARN SPANISH! It can mean the difference between success and failure here.
Develop a cultural awareness by learning the language, attending local activities, mixing with the people and reading.
Don’t lend the locals money!
Be generous with your help but don’t be overly friendly. They work for you and are not your buddies.
Don’t be too trusting.
Be careful of people who are overly friendly. They usually want something from you.
Make sure you live in a secure home or condo.
Make sure you have the right attitude and above all don’t be an ugly American.
Remember you are a guest in the country.
Respect the local laws.
Respect the local customs
Don’t think you can outsmart the system because the locals are stupid and you are an American.
Stay busy and active
Above all have a lot of patience, cultural tolerance and a GOOD sense of humor
Every year for the Christmas season, Medellín celebrates an event is called El Alumbrado, literally meaning “the lighting.” The official ceremony takes place on December 1. There’s no better time to visit this wonderful city. The event expected to attract thousands of visitors. National Geographic considers Medellín of the 10 best places in the entire world to view Christmas lights. Lights can be seen throughout the city of Medellín at well over 100 locations: colorful lights adorn famous public squares and plazas such as Nutibara Hill (where Pueblito Paisa is located), not to mention private homes in neighborhoods like Savaneta, and shopping malls. You will virtually see lights everywhere you go in the city.
Christmas lights form figures in the shape of angels, Christmas trees, snowmen, wreaths, sleds, Santa, and other Christmas-related symbols.
This annual Christmas festival started in the 1950s. Over the years this event has grown by leaps and bounds and has now become one of the biggest tourist attractions in Medellin. Visitors can now view over 30 million lights!
The Annual Festival of the Flowers (Feria de las Flores) is another annual spectacle that takes place in Medellín. People from all of the world and different parts of Colombia come to witness this event. Colorful Flower displays can be seen everywhere. I will dedicate another blog to this subject at a later date.
The term ¡Bienvenido! means “ welcome” in Spanish. I remember my on my first trip to Colombia I was repeatedly greeted with this phrase. Recently, I took a ride on Medellín’s Metro system and struck up a conversation with a perfect stranger. One of the first things he said was, ¡bienvenido! This attitude of welcoming visitors and the smiles I get when walking around Medellín make me feel comfortable and right at home.
Colombians are friendly and outgoing and will often go out of their way to help you even if you do not speak Spanish. They are also very pro-American and love anything American—music, TV, fashion and U.S. culture in general. Probably the best thing about living in Colombia are its warm, friendly and accepting people and one of the main factors in considering the country as a place to relocate.
According to many world happiness indexes, Colombians are some of the happiest and most positive people in the world despite the adversity and strife they have faced over the years. I find this attuned contagious.
They tend to be extremely courteous and polite . The words “please,” “you’re welcome” and “thank you,” are what you’ll frequently pick up on in everyday conversations. Some of these niceties you will often hear are: para servirle ( a pleasure to serve you), de nada (you’re welcome), a la órden (at your service) and mucho con gusto (thank you or it’s a pleasure).
The image of Colombia’s of bandits, drug traffickers and rebels that series on Netflix portray, do not portray a realistic picture of the country’s people. Colombians are really fantastic and are happy to share their country with foreigners. They will welcome you into their communities with local food, music, dancing and interesting cultural activities and festivities. It shouldn’t come as ano surprise that they strive to project a good image of themselves and their country and erase the erroneous one of guerrilla warfare and drug violence.
For instance, one day while walking down Poblado Avenue in Medellín I stopped and talked to a policeman, who asked me what I was doing in Colombia. I told him that I was promoting the country as a new haven for retirees and others who want to relocate more affordably without sacrificing their current lifestyles. I went on to say that I was also trying to dispel the erroneous image that many people abroad have of the country. He remarked that, “Unfortunately, that is the image that has been sold to the world.” He then thanked me for promoting his country.
There is nothing worse that moving to a new country and not feeling welcome. Be assured, this will not be the case in Medellín, Colombia.
As I mentioned in a previous blog, one of the best ways to learn about any country or its culture is through a people’s language and foods. The Paisa Platter is a perfect example of this. But first let’s look at the meaning of the word “paisa”.
In Colombian Spanish, Paisa is a shortened form of Paisano which describes the ‘countrymen’ from the Antioquia region, one of the oldest parts of Colombia in the north-west of the country.The main cities in this region are Medellín, Pereira, Manizales and Armenia. Additionally, the departamentos (provinces) of Caldas, Risaralda, Quindío and parts of Valle del Cauca (north) and Tolima (west) identify culturally with thepaisa region.
The paisas have been considered a genetically isolated population according with researches. They are predominantly European ancestry because it is said that the male Spaniards who settled the region during the 16th and 17th centuries arrived with their women.
Paisas are well known in Colombia for their kindness, hospitality and welcoming aptitude to persons from other regions and visitors. You only have to set foot in Colombia to realize this. Travelers are greeted repeatedly with the term, “Bienvenido a Colombia” (Welcome to Colombia.) as soon as they get off the plane.
Bandeja paisa is the most traditional dish from this part of the country. Bandeja” means “platter or large tray,” as this dish is served on a platter, given its size. It is generally made up of carne asada (grilled steak) or carne molida (finely ground grilled steak), chicharrón(fried pork rind), rice, red beans, fried eggs, a slice of avocado,sweet fried plantains, a fried egg, anarepa (flat bread made from cornmeal), white rice, hogao (a traditional Colombian condiment made of a savory mix of tomatoes, onions, garlic, cilantro,) and sometimes chorizo (sausage).
Here are a couple of recipes for the famous Bandeja Paisa (paisa platter)
There is no better way to know a people, their customs and culture than through their language and foods.
A buñuelois a fried dough ball and is usually filled or has a topping, but there are many regional variations of this dish. It is a popular snack in many countries in the Spanish-speaking world including Argentina, Bolivia, Colombia, Cuba, El Salvador, Guatemala Mexico, Nicaragua. Puerto Rico, Ecuador Uruguay Spain and Venezuela. Latin American buñuelos are often considered a symbol of good luck.
In Colombia buñuelos are a traditional Colombian Christmas treat, but they are also popular year round for breakfast with hot chocolate or coffee. It seems that everywhere you go there are restaurants and food stands offering this popular dish. In Colombia they are typically made with a small curd white cheese and formed into doughy balls then fried golden brown. They are often served with natilla, a sweet custard that is prepared during Colombian Christmas gatherings.
Below are three recipes for Colombian-style buñuelos. On our exploratory tours to Medellín participants have a chance to savor many traditional foods including buñuelos.
Colombian President Juan Manuel Santos on Wednesday opened the new international wing of El Dorado the country’s most important airport.
Some 40 million people are estimated to have traveled through the Bogota airport this year. According to the Ministry of Transport, the airport additionally processes 70% of international freight.
The airport had been under construction for years as tourism to the country has grown steadily. To deal with the 6 million foreign tourists next year, the airport can now count on an additional 50,000 square meters, processing facilities and six VIP rooms. According to Santos, his administration has invested $2 billion in national airport infrastructure over the past seven years.
38,000 Colombian families will now work together as a new company called María del Campo, which will operate under a similar business model of that of coffee growers.
The long-term project will be based out of Bogotá and is expected to foster a 5% increase in the grain’s production in the year-to-year calculation following 2016’s record of 56,785 tons produced and exported.
Larger legal crops in Colombia imply that a greater percentage of the nation will improve its public order, access to public services, and illness control. The initiative presents great potential for investors, as current production motivated the restoration of 10,000 productive hectares, 12.5% of the total Colombian productive capacity for cocoa.
A $6 million dollar investment from the Colombian Agriculture Ministry allows as much as 110,000 nationals to improve their living conditions; although further investments from the public and private sectors is needed, perspectives remain optimistic. The long-term scenario for Colombian cocoa production would total 380 tons per year, a 633% surge from actual figures.
The Chocolate Market
Big chocolate operates in the same way crude does. The largest worldwide cocoa producers are Mondelez, responsible for Cadbury, Mars, Nestlé, and The Hershey’s Company. Together these companies produce 360,000 tons of cocoa per year.
Net sales for the top 10 chocolate manufacturers worldwide are $83.5 billion dollars. Those gross margins are obtained through the Fair Trade for cocoa and chocolate, which sets a ton of cocoa at $1,750 dollars, including premiums. The current Colombian price for a ton of the South American grain nears $2,000 dollars, which poses a long term treat as farmer’s expectations has been consistent around $3,000 dollars.
Colombian farmers are focusing their efforts into the maximum production a single square meter of land can produce, even though the strategy is sound and consistent for the middle term it won’t suffice the long term pressures. Ivory Coast is the largest worldwide cocoa producer , it’s production is 30x Colombia’s and is seeing a rapid increase as the local government is shifting into a cooperative mindset.
The only way to survive a growing market for chocolate is through effective differentiation. Colombia’s relatively small and family-owned cocoa crops; the nation could generate higher revenues if they focus on providing a high quality grain, which could command a $100 – $300 dollar increase on a single tone under the free trade condition, a responsible benchmark for the future price of the grain.
The worldwide retail consumption of chocolate has increased an average of 4.3% over the last three year period, a surge that responds to Bain & Company’s projections for a 2-4% expansion of the luxury market worldwide. There is room for a new player in the chocolate industry without competing with the long-established titans.
Latin American Post | David Eduardo Rodríguez Acevedo
No other plant in human history has been as demonized as coca.
In 1961, it was placed on the Schedule I list at the United Nations Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs, which stated that “The Parties shall so far as possible enforce the uprooting of all coca bushes which grow wild. They shall destroy the coca bushes if illegally cultivated.” The plant has been public enemy number one in the worldwide War on Drugs for decades.
While countries like Peru and Bolivia have fought back against the culturally myopic and violently neo-colonial enforcement of these laws, eventually legalizing the plant in their respective countries and even petitioning the UN to change its views worldwide, Colombia has historically played along. Although it has always honored the rights of indigenous groups to grow and use coca, for decades Colombia has allowed the US to aerially spray pesticides on its crops and fund violent military maneuvers in many of its prime coca-growing regions.
But when the World Health Organization announced last year that the Monsanto-made pesticide, glyphosate, was actually highly carcinogenic, Colombia’s days of kissing America’s ass came to a screeching halt. In an abrupt turnaround, Colombia’s president Juan Manuel Santos is now challenging the War on Drugs in its entirety; this a reflection of the national psyche of a country that has borne the brunt of failed policies for far too long and is ready for real change.
Nowhere is that change more evident than on the streets of Bogotá, the country’s hip, two-mile-high capital. At new businesses like the Embajada de la Coca (The Coca Embassy) the green leaf is being restored to its rightful place as a powerful medicinal plant and super-nutrient that should be revered instead of reviled.
“We are trying to promote the proper use of this plant, as it has been perverted for centuries, and show how it is actually used as indigenous tradition,” says Ximena Robayo, who runs the restaurant/café/health food store in the heart of the city’s bohemian La Candelaria district.
“What is beginning to happen now is that beyond the traditional indigenous use of coca, we are now implementing projects in which the leaf is organically cultivated for food for everyone.”
Ximena stocks coca products right alongside other traditional Andean superfoods like maca and quinoa. All are highly nutritious plants that were cultivated by the ancient civilizations that made this extensive mountain range, the second highest in the world after the Himalayas, their home.
Besides chewing the leaves of coca, or brewing them into a tea, a wide variety of cooked and baked goods and dishes can be made with coca by grinding the leaves into a flour, called harina. This harina can also be stirred into juices, blended in smoothies, and used to make green drinks of all types.
One of the Embajada de la Coca’s house specialties is the coca crepe, which Ximena prepares in the small back kitchen. After mixing the harina de coca into a batter of quinoa flour, she gently spreads out the crepe in the saucepan before adding your choice of ingredients: fresh veggies or curried chicken.
The result is a tasty, if deeply green, lunch dish that not only packs a powerful nutritional punch, but gives you a real shot of energy that lasts the rest of the afternoon.
“The use of the leaf as flour gives us a different way to use it as medicine,” Ximena explains, “since in food it can be prepared as a variety of plates that have the same nutritional properties.”
And in fact, the last in-depth exploration of coca leaf’s nutritional properties, which was conducted at Harvard University in 1975 before further studies were banned, found it to be a vitamin- and mineral-packed powerhouse without rival.
According to the Harvard study’s author, world renowned ethnobotanist Professor James A. Duke, coca leaves are not only higher in protein, iron, vitamin A, fiber, riboflavin, phosphorus, and calories than the 50 other vegetable foods they were compared against, but at over 2,000 milligrams per 100 grams, they contain more calcium than any other item on the entire INCAP Food Composition Table—the international nutritional database of food.
This helps explain coca’s reputation as the “plant of immortality” in the Andean region, as calcium is known to ward of many degenerative diseases that affect the aging population, including osteoporosis.
In fact, the oldest living human being ever documented, a Bolivian man who lived to be 123 years old, chewed coca leaf all day long, every single day of his life.
Consuming the coca leaf in food, as in a tasty little alfajor pastry that goes down quite nicely with a coca leaf tea, for example, not only ups your intake of important nutrients, it also provides an energetic boost to both body and brain due to the presence of cocaine—just one of the dozen or so alkaloids that the coca leaf contains.
To really catch a buzz, however, you need to chew the leaf with a bit of something alkaline to activate and extract the alkaloids. In countries like Bolivia and Peru, coca chewers use a substance known as llipta, which is made from the ashes of leaves or bark mixed with mint leaves or stevia. In Colombia, the traditional activator is cal, a powder made from pulverized sea shells.
In a pinch, you can always use good old baking soda.
“We believe that in the future the leaf will take its traditional place as a food and medicine for the people,” Ximena explains, holding a bottle of coca leaf-infused rum up for inspection. “Colombia is quickly waking up to the power of this legacy and we hope the rest of the world will, too.
“The eradication of coca as a strategy strongly promoted by the governments of Colombia and the United States as part of its ‘War Against Drugs’ is dying ,” she says. “And it’s about time.”
“Now that the coca eradication taking place in the growing regions of Colombia have become intensely controversial because of their socioeconomic and environmental impacts, we have an opportune moment,” says Ximena. “We can become like Bolivia, where coca cultivation is promoted by the government of President Evo Morales.”
With its incredible health-promoting properties still being discovered, coca’s introduction to the mainstream culture of Colombia—the most populous and urbanized of the Andean countries—seems to be inevitable at this point. That’s a cause to celebrate for anyone who has tasted one of Ximena’s bomb coca alfajores.
The next step is for the US and the rest of the world to wake up and acknowledge that coca is a sacred medicine and powerful superfood that could contribute greatly to overcoming malnutrition in the world.
Dear readers, on August 2, 2017 the Ministry of Exterior Relations released broad changes/reclassifications to the Colombian visa program. All in all, we perceive the changes as positive and most of the changes are designed to clarify and simplify not complicate. Mariana and I have gone through the 21 page article/resolution in great detail and it is with pleasure that we summarize what we think are the most important changes/updates for Medellin Living readers. Here is a summary of the 10 most important changes that we have seen:
1) There now only exist 3 visas for foreigners instead of almost 20 previously (high-five!)
– The “V” or Visitor visa
– The “M” or Migrant visa
– The “R” or Resident visa
Note: many of the requirements for each of these visas are exactly the same as before, they have now just categorized many of the old “TP” visa types into the V and M types respectively.
2) Visitor visas – not much changed here; there is a new type of “working-holiday” visa and cultural interchange/study visas with up to 2 year validity, but overall the same max 180 day rule applies to visitors in Colombia for most work and leisure/tourism purposes.
3) Migrant visas – obtained via marriage, investment (via SAS or real property), new business formation, and certified pension income. ALL “M” visas are now granted with a 3 year duration (big news!), where previously the durations ranged from 1 to 3 years. This is very positive in my view as it cuts down on the annual paperwork/trip to Bogota for these types of visa holders.
4) Resident visas – no real change and exactly the same application requirements as always (usually obtained via real estate investment of 650 minimum salaries, or about $475MM COP). A clarification that if the “R” visa holder should posses his/her cedula de extranjeria and should not be absent from Colombia for more than a 2 year continuous period.
5) Student visas – in general, Cancilleria seems to be tightening up on student visas. Specifically, only granting the visa for the term of the studies and NOT for the standard 3 year term, and also requiring bank account statements in the name of the applicant showing sufficient funds for their visa period.
6) Other Migrant “M” visa exclusions:
– those “M” visa holders who applied with pension income, cannot work in Colombia
– those “M” visa holders who applied with foreign investment, cannot work in Colombia
– dependant visa holders (spouses, etc.) cannot work in Colombia
– if you are sponsored by a company, you must only work for that company
7) Pension visas – no change, just certify about $750 USD/month in pension income to apply.
8) Marriage visas – the Colombian person you are marrying must present a written and notarized letter authorizing you to seek the marriage visa. This is most definitely due to abuse and “arranged” types of marriages to random Colombian nationals/”friends”.
9) Interviews – there is a specific mention of the use of interviews at the leisure of the Cancilleria when it is deemed necessary to validate any information in person about the foreigner’s activities in Colombia. We have definitely seen the number of interview requests increase and can help prepare for them.
10) Bank account verification – for many applications, a specific statement that bank account statements could be requested to validate sufficient financial resources to support oneself in Colombia. This might sound strange coming from a developing country but my hypothesis is that it is probably targeted at Venezuelan immigration attempts more than anything.
11) While not explicitly called out in this latest article/update, we have also seen an uptick in the amount of information (and interviews) being requested for holders of “business/start-up” visas to ensure that their companies are actually being used to conduct business in Colombia and not just for the purpose of obtaining a visa. We have assisted recently a number of new clients who had previously had issues in order to get their books in order and properly presented.
Once again, we think the changes are all good. The high quality visa applications are being rewarded with longer renewal terms and the lower quality types or those subject to abuse are now subject to more documentation.
The Social Security Administration (SSA) has consolidated its overseas operations into several regional offices that provide a full range of SSA services for U.S. citizens residing outside of the United States. Effective October 1, 2017, individuals residing in Colombia who require social security services or have questions about SSA benefits must contact the SSA Federal Benefits Unit (FBU) located in San Jose, Costa Rica rather than the U.S. Embassy in Bogota or U.S. Consular Agency in Barranquilla.
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Please be advised that as of October 1, 2017, the U.S. Embassy in Bogota and U.S. Consular Agency in Barranquilla can no longer accept telephone calls, emails, or walk-in consultations regarding Social Security issues.
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For more information or any questions about the services provided at the FBU in San Jose, Costa Rica and how to contact them, please visit their webpage at: https://cr.usembassy.gov/ u-s-citizen-services/social- security/. You can also reach them via email by completing this online form.
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